Landowners ‘incredibly supportive’ as John O’Groats Trail sees 65% rise in walker numbers
Landowners have been praised for supporting the John O’Groats Trail after a 65 per cent increase in walker numbers on the 147-mile coastal route in the past two years.
More than 50 stiles have been built over that period, along with a dozen bridges and seven walkways, mostly in Caithness, with feedback suggesting that the JOGT could go on to be regarded as “one of the great trails of the world”.
Ken McElroy has been employed as the trail development manager since September 2022 and in a progress report he says it has become increasingly clear that the route is an asset to the coastal communities of the north Highlands.
Following his graduation after studying archaeology at the University of Glasgow, and after a year working in Kilmartin Museum as its education and volunteer officer, Ken returned to his native Caithness to embark on a new adventure – to help maintain, develop and promote the JOGT.
The trail, which serves to link up the north Highlands to the rest of the UK’s long-distance trail network, was launched by Jay Wilson eight years ago and has been run by the Association of Northern Trails of Scotland (ANTS) since 2019. Trustees include Highland councillor Matthew Reiss; Sally Crowe, a Keiss-based crofter with land on the trail; and Frank Stephen, a retired vet who raised £35,500 for Alzheimer Scotland by walking the trail in May this year.
Ken was the charity’s first development manager, in a position funded by SSE Renewables’ Beatrice Caithness Fund and Beatrice Partnership Fund, the Caithness and North Sutherland Fund and a private donation from Caroline Pickard in memory of her husband Rob. Caroline and Rob were among some of the first to walk the John O’Groats Trail. Rob passed away in July 2018 and Caroline made a £10,000 donation towards the trail, observing that “Rob would have been so pleased the trail is progressing and honoured to have a donation given in his name to help in keeping this beautiful walk accessible for as many people as possible”.
Ken says that even though much of his time has been spent “gawping at the beautiful views afforded from the trail – from incredible geological formations and historic monuments to rainbows” – he has “managed to get some work done in between those moments”.
He explained: “The first few weeks of my role were much the same as any other new job – settling in and soaking up everything there was to learn about the development of the trail, where the main issues lay, who the key contacts and players were, and what Jay and the JOGT were striving to achieve both in the short and long term.”
These goals were supported by a community consultation exercise undertaken in 2022 with Alan Jones Associates. More than 800 respondents were asked for their views and perceptions of the trail, and how or indeed if it should be developed.
The report clearly demonstrated that the JOGT was well supported and well perceived in the area, with 91 per cent of those asked in favour of further promotion and development.
Ken points out, however, that the trail can only be developed with the support and goodwill of landowners. His job has brought him into contact with a wide range of farmers, crofters and estate managers, all of whom have a say and stake in the trail’s development.
“We are indebted to the hundreds of landowners across the trail – without them, trails cannot function,” Ken said. “Landowners have been incredibly supportive of the JOGT, providing us with permission to improve access on their land for walkers – infrastructure like stiles and bridges.
“I think landowners can see the very real socio-economic benefits it provides to their community. We have several who are members, and two are trustees, which is great to see.”
Ken acknowledges that inviting access to the coast means the organisation needs to be on the “front foot” when access questions arise.
“Most people who access the coast for a walk are considerate and conscientious, but we know from time to time there’s a minority who can cause an issue,” he said. “I think the Scottish Outdoor Access Code and the right to responsible access in Scotland is a source of real pride for many, and it is something we are lucky to have – but we all need to work at it to ensure that people know what responsible access is, and what it entails.”
One contentious point concerns dog-walkers. “We’ve been asked by a couple of people why our stiles aren’t dog-friendly,” Ken said. “But we have never promoted the trail as suitable for dogs and we continue to do so, as we respect the livelihoods of those on the trail.”
The trail is mostly on the periphery, hugging the north Highland coastline. As it is bound by the sea on one side and farmland on the other, Ken has encountered and dealt with several issues that could hamper a walker’s progress. By walking the JOGT, and working with a trail “audit” – a physical review undertaken by seasoned trail-builder Ron McCraw – Ken was able to identify what needed most urgent attention.
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“For those wondering how much it costs to develop a 147-mile long walking trail – it does, unsurprisingly, not come cheap,” Ken said. “But it’s more than well worth raising the funds towards a project like this.
“The more I have walked of the trail, the more I have realised what an asset it is to the coastal communities of the north Highlands – this is an opportunity to make the most of what we have, and the far north would, in my mind, would reap a plethora of benefits with such an investment.”
Ken himself has been responsible for over £200,000 towards trail development, from a variety of funders, all of which has gone towards the development and improvement of trails in the north of Scotland. Since October 2022 the JOGT has added 52 stiles, seven walkways and 12 bridges, largely on the Caithness sections.
Other notable additions and improvements to the trail include a series of steps built at Forse, at a notoriously difficult section, “requiring particular effort in terms of tracing the landowner”, and steps and a bridge at Whaligoe.
At Freswick a drystone wall was rebuilt. This was one of the first instances where ANTS successfully requested that a fence or wall be moved to improve trail safety, with the hope that further similar developments can be made across the trail.
All of this has meant that 2024 was a record-breaking year for trail-walking in the north Highlands. Since 2022 the John O’Groats Trail has seen a 65 per cent increase in walker numbers, gleaned from people counters and a visitors’ sign-in book.
Praise for the trail has come from around the world, with Ken encountering walkers from Germany, Italy, the USA and Israel.
“We’ve received some wonderful feedback from walkers,” he said. “Some have called the experience ‘life-changing’, and that the trail could become one of the great trails of the world. It really gives us encouragement to keep going.”
Ken’s work has been aided by volunteer trail wardens who have been involved in monitoring the route as well as helping to put in infrastructure, clear bracken and gorse, install signage and waymarkers and even pick litter. Ken has helped to reignite the volunteer network, which has grown to 30 members.
As for the future, Ken promises that the best is yet to come – notably, £90,000 has also been raised towards the construction of Loth Burn bridge, which will be by far the most expensive infrastructure development along the trail, with funding acquired through seven different funders. The work is due to take place later in 2024 under the management of Frank McCulloch of Arvikaconsult.
“The bridge at Loth Burn is badly needed – in spate, it can easily reach head-height, and so this is a major obstacle for walkers,” Ken said. “The construction of a bridge here will mark a high point in the development of the trail.”
Funding also went towards the development of a new trail – the North Coast Trail, which will run west from John O’Groats to Cape Wrath. Funds acquired by Ken were used towards the appointment of a new trail development manager who would be responsible for developing the trail in Caithness.
Laura Gray has been in position since June this year, working on walking the North Coast Trail and engaging with communities through a series of consultations. Laura has also been able to help on a number of other projects and infrastructure developments on the John O’Groats Trail within Caithness.
Laura said: “When joining the ANTS team in the summer, I was excited to be working alongside Ken as he has such enthusiasm for the trails and what Caithness has to offer.
“Ken has been instrumental in helping to develop the John O’Groats Trail to a more widely accessible trail and increased its profile locally. He has been invaluable in the initial stages of the North Coast Trail, offering guidance and sharing his wealth of local knowledge – and pointing out every broch in the area!”
Trail founder and ANTS chairman Jay Wilson said: “It has made a huge difference to have Ken’s youthful enthusiasm and energy to develop the trail the past two years. We have continued to see the trail use increase by leaps and bounds.
“This puts an emphasis on improving infrastructure to keep the trail safe and walkable for as many people as possible, which has been Ken’s main focus, though it’s often behind the scenes. A big thanks to our funders for his position.”
The JOGT is very much still a “trail in development”, according to Ken, with much still to be done. But its success points towards the north Highlands becoming a leading “slow tourism” destination in Scotland, and perhaps one of the most famous walking routes in the world. As Ken says: “It just takes one step at a time.”
