End of the road for Caithness village’s ‘Carbuncle’ tag

A Caithness village lambasted as a “bleak outpost” and a “Highland ghost town” just a year after a transformation plan was announced has turned its fortunes around.

John O’Groats this week marked 15 years since a masterplan to turn it into a thriving visitor attraction was launched.

Just a year after the launch, however, the village was awarded the dubious title of the Carbuncle award where it “won” the unenviable Plook on a Plinth trophy in 2010.

The masterplan was launched in 2009 by local residents, business owners, and private and public sector representatives.

It was developed by Highlands and Islands Enterprise (HIE) and consultants GVA Grimley, after a 12-week consultation with stakeholders.

A key aim was to develop facilities and experiences to match the “end-of-the-road” status and dramatic coastline of John O’Groats, while retaining local identity, supporting local businesses and attracting investment.

Fifteen years on from the launch, Highlands and Islands Enterprise says the transformation at John O’Groats has attracted millions of pounds in investment through private, public and community-led initiatives.

Projects include the renovation of the inn and lodge accommodation, the upgrade of the Journey’s End café to become Café Groats, and the redevelopment of the nearby Caberfeidh Guest House.

A community-led car park development has helped raise funds for local development and there has been investment in amenities such as pathways, wi-fi, signage, toilets and art installations to enhance the visitor experience.

Retail offering on site now includes Stacks deli and bakery, Flavours ice cream and jewellery from Ortak. The John O’Groats Brewery has been expanded into the Last House and the new 8 Doors Distillery opened in 2022 – transforming a derelict site into a thriving local business that celebrates both heritage and innovation.

The John O’Groats Mill Trust, meanwhile, is progressing a £4.9 million redevelopment of this Grade 2 listed landmark into a local heritage hub and visitor attraction, after securing significant external investment.

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Eann Sinclair, HIE area manager for Caithness and Sutherland, said: “The transformation of John O’Groats over the past 15 years has been remarkable. It demonstrates the power of community initiative and collaboration, and the belief that even the most challenging situations can be turned around with vision and determination.

“While the masterplan provided the blueprint, the actual change is down to the hard work and determination of many individuals, businesses and community groups who saw the opportunities and embraced the challenges.

“It’s been a pleasure to work with everyone involved over the years and to witness what John O’Groats has become. The momentum is ongoing and we’ll see many more improvements taking place at this amazing attraction.”

The change from 14 years ago is stark. In 2010, Carbuncle spokesperson John Glenday said: “John O’Groats may be geographically on top of the world but its built environment is scraping bottom.

“Its great distance should be no excuse for losing sight of the fact that this motley agglomeration of buildings on the edge of the sea that so many travel so far to see is unduly prominent internationally.

“What sort of impression is this torrid environment making on those who have travelled furthest to see it and what must they report to family and friends back home?

“Until this northerly outpost starts treating its guests with respect there can be no hope of becoming a genuinely significant tourist draw.”

Many of those marking the anniversary earlier this week were also present at the masterplan launch. Among them was Andrew Mowat, lifelong resident and businessman, who operates the café and other visitor facilities.

Mr Mowat is also treasurer of the John O’Groats Development Trust.

He said: “By working together and with support from the likes of HIE and other agencies, the community has transformed John O’Groats into a lovely place for people to enjoy. We have shops, cafes, a brewery and distillery, and a great path network for folk to enjoy the open space and to promote physical and mental wellbeing.

“It’s a great family place to come, with many people bringing their kids to relax, have an ice cream or a coffee and cake.

“The brewery and the distillery have been established by local businesspeople who have had the confidence to invest because John O’Groats was growing and attracting new investment.

“The masterplan of 2009 has been a catalyst for all of this and now we have infrastructure and facilities and local jobs.”

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